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Classic Tailoring Techniques: A Construction Guide for Men's Wear (F.I.T. Collection) (Language of Fashion Series), by Roberto Cabrera, Pa
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- Sales Rank: #946790 in Books
- Published on: 1983-03-01
- Released on: 1991-12-31
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 10.80" h x .52" w x 8.41" l, 1.32 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 245 pages
Most helpful customer reviews
135 of 135 people found the following review helpful.
Finally! A clear professional guide for tailoring
By Amazon Customer
I checked this book out of the library hoping to tell me how to make those welt pockets. I have 10 books in my library that have tailoring instructions, but I was stumped with the pockets until I read this book. He went step by step and assumed you didn't know anything about sewing pockets. This author uses the same common sense layman language throughout the whole book. The pictures are black and white, but helpful. He makes you feel as if he was passing down all his tailoring secrets from generations before along to you. This book is not about speed tailoring with fusible interfacings. He goes into great detail to show you the exact hand stitches to look like a pro did it. I like the way he warns people of the common mistakes and how to avoid them. I am an avid sewer, but I have never made a suit. I am trying to make a tuxedo for my husband, and I am excited about how it will look when it is done. He has given me the confidence and knowledge to be able to accomplish it with just intermediate sewing skills.
10 of 10 people found the following review helpful.
Must be read in conjunction with Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket
By annah
I found that this book was useful but at times hard to understand. The images are old and look like they have been photocopied over and over - so there is lack of clarity and detail in some pictures. I recommend that this book be purchased in conjunction with "Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket" as the latter has better pictures for clarity and ease (but focuses on women's tailoring only). I would buy this book for men's tailoring - if you only do women's tailoring, you could get away with "Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket".
Cabrera's section on pattern alterations re fit were helpful but so is the book "The Perfect Fit" though some of Robert Cabrera's solutions for altering fit - eg - correcting uneven shoulders treats these problems differently. It also has good fitting instructions on things not covered in "The Perfect Fit" such as knock knees, bow legs.
This book is not for a beginner but for someone with a high level of experience with sewing. It would suit someone who has some experience making tailored garments the commercial way who is looking to up-grade their skills to a custom level, i.e. someone that can already execute slightly tricky things like welt pockets, hand-made buttonholes etc.
Would I buy this book again despite some of its short-comings? Yes, but only in conjunction with
Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket due to the clarity of pictures in Cabrera's book.
The reason I would still buy this book is because other books tell you what you should do, the next step etc but this book also gives some explanation as to why you need to do things the way you should, it gives explanations about fittings, about anatomy, what you should be looking for, how to correct things but most importantly, why the problem presents itself.
3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
An incredibly helpful book
By Mr Barnaby
+ Explains why you do certain steps (not all the time but enough to greater understand some techniques)
+ Techniques that I haven't thought to alter to suit the construction
+ Step by step guiding is incredibly helpful
+ The way that it's written is like a teacher guiding you as you sew; concise, conversational and encouraging.
+ Line drawings are plentiful and highly useful
- The photographs are terrible. Grainy and blurred, they don't help very much. I feel like taking my own as I do my first suit and slipping them in the pages as I go
- I didn't like the paper the book was printed on. It's too thin and 'chalky', reminds me of a roll of fax paper
/ On pages 104 and 105, a small paragraph repeats itself. If the authors wanted to stress the point, I'd thought they would have reworded it.
/ Can feel like it glances over topics which might turn off someone who is looking for a holy bible/ encyclopedia of suit construction. Has a small section on alteration for example and the style of suit is left to you with typical feature variations (the usual pocket shapes etc).
I'm looking forward to making my first full suit using this book. It isn't a beginners book but is within the understanding of a hobby sewer (at least); you have to understand a lot of the terminology used and I think you'd have to be comfortable with your pattern making skills to visualise the pieces involved. The little tips like on page 101 about shortening the right front of a double breasted jacket so it doesn't hand lower than the left side remind me of the many word of mouth tips my sewing teachers taught us. They make a world of difference and there are many to consider.
My expectations have been met and then beyond. A great read and fantastic resource.
*EDIT* There are a few more sentences in the book that do repeat themselves but looking back I think it wasn't necessary to reword the lines. It reminded me of teachers that wanted you to be mindful of the techniques and made it all the more endearing. It gives the book personality and a human touch.
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